Running through the terroir
While on morning runs with Martha from Beaune to Pommard and back (or to Volnay or Meursault, depending on how far we want go), it’s been way interesting to discover some of the subtle nuances that make these individual climats (named vineyards) so different. Terroir is made up of so many things, but as you pass closely by the same parcels every day you can start to get a feel for some of the micro-climate nuances that contribute to the differences in the resulting wines.
There’s a spot in the Beaune 1er Crus when the road turns to the east and dips a bit, just below Les Avaux, when you can suddenly feel the temperature drop a few degrees as the wind blows down from a break in the hillside above. You can see exactly where the fog settles in the valley between the two slopes of Pommard, and which parcels are generally above the fog most mornings. You can see which parcels drain well and those where the water pools. You can feel when the wind is blocked and see why that parcel is warmer and likely to ripen earlier. Fascinating stuff indeed. You can see which blocks get the most sun, and thus are the ones to more consistently fully ripen.
I thought it might be interesting to map my run the other morning. I was amazed to see that on a 12-mile run to Meursault and back I had gone through some 48 different climats -
Beaune - les Sceaux, la Creusotte, Teurons, Reversées, Clos de la Mousse, aux Cras, les Avaux, Tuvilaine, Chouachoeux, Beaux Fougets, Boucherottes
Pommard - Boucherottes, Epenots, en Largilliere, Charmots, Clos de la Commaraine, Poutures, Croix Noires, Chaponniers, Fremiers, Jarolières
Volnay - Fremiets, Chanlins, Pitures, Clos des Ducs, La Barre, Bousse d’Or, Carelle sous Chapelle, en l’Ormeau, Ronceret, Champans, Caillerets, Chevret, Aussy, Lurets, Santenots,
Meursault - Clos des Santenots, Santenot de dessous, Santenot de milieu, Marcasse, Criots, Peutes Vignes, Corbins, Perchots, en la Barre, Clos de la Barre.
Wow. A great run, and a nice study in micro-climates and terroir. Multi-tasking at its finest!